This guide was first made for the Troodon 2.0 with Klipper as customized from Tiny Machines 3D. That machine is no longer offered. We now offer the Troodon 2 Pro and Pro Mini, as well as the Marathon IDEX
For those looking at a PDF, the latest version of this guide is located at the link below.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
- Unboxing
- Assembly
- Filament Sensor
- I/O Ports
- Odds and Ends
- Web Cam Installation
- Powering On
- Getting Connected (Wi-Fi/Ethernet)
- Firmware / UI Updates
- Setting Z Offset
- Bed Mesh Calibration
- Filament Load / Unload
- Input shaper -- Running A Shaper Tune
- Slicer Software
- Starting Your First Print
- SSH
Unboxing
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Assembly
Please view our Edited Factory Build Guide first NOTE: [Step 1] of Edited Factory Guide, Removing Stop Blocks, can be omitted as our machines ship with our build plate guides installed, (Shown in Odds and Ends section).
Filament Sensor
The filament runout sensor is a simple mechanical switch. When filament is in the sensor, a green light indicates the switch is triggered. When open and clear of filament, the light will be off. Our included sensor with attached bracket allows for both printer-mounted filament spool and externally mounted filament spool, such as from a filament dryer, with the additional bracket with collet.
Stock sensor configuration for standard spools | Large spools or remote filament dryer |
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| SHCS M3 22mm | SHCS M3 25mm |
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I/O Ports
Our Troodon 2 printers are equipped with a Klipper Box that has Ethernet and USB ports. The Klipper Box can be connected directly to your internet router for optimal performance. A free USB port can be used to run print jobs directly with a spare USB drive.
- 5 volt DC barrel jack - pay attention to the device
- USB cable
- Wi-Fi adapter
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| Klipper Box without cables plugged in | Klipper Box with cables and WiFi dongle plugged in |
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Odds and Ends
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Plug the Angry Cam into the USB extension on the rear of the printer. The extension will be tucked in to the bottom; gently pull it out long enough to connect. Only included when Angry Cam upgrade is selected. | The chamber thermistor and bracket will be loose for shipping, attach with included BHCS (button head) and T-nut. It is already connected internally. Only included when Klipper Expander is selected. |
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| The Stealthburner Printhead is shipping with our 'fat finger' lever upgrade for maximum durability. | We have also upgraded the Z endstop pin to the Sex bolt mod by Hartk as the stock setup from Vivedino was prone to magnetization, dislodging | To allow for more convenient bed replacement we have added bed guides/indexers at the rear of the printer. |
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GREEN Filament Sensor with Bracket BLUE Belt Grabbers - for use when taking the printhead off the machine. RED Double Ended Filament Coupler YELLOW Acyrillic Bracket (Optional) | ANGRY CAM camera focus adjuster Customized / Inspired by https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4799385 | Belt Grabbers by YGK2K - to be fastened to X rail to hold belts in place when removing printhead. |
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Web Cam Installation
For our Troodon 2.0s, the ANGRY CAM Webcam is mounted at the rear of the printer as shown below. Angry Cam Webcam is a optional upgrade.
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| Angry Cam Assembly as shipped with mounting bracket with screws, USB cable, and 3M strip. | Angry cam with lens cap removed | The Angry Cam is mounted at the rear of the printer with 2 spring t-nuts and socket head screws. |
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| Angry Cam mounted at rear of printer with lens cap on. | Plug the Angry Cam into the USB extension on the rear of the printer. The extension will be tucked in to the bottom; gently pull it out long enough to connect. | Video will be featured on the dashboard of Mainsail, accessible by the printers IP address. |
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Powering On
Using the supplied power cable, plug into a wall outlet. Power strips are OK but if running other devices on the same outlet, you may experience issues. This machine has an AC powered bed and uses up to 10amps peak.
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Plug in the included power cable in | Flip the power switch on next to the power plug, and wait for the printer to power on (picture shows switch in the OFF position). |
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Below is an example of the screen boot up sequence
Getting Connected (Wi-Fi/Ethernet)
Ethernet
The Ethernet jack is located directly on the Klipper device. You can connect directly to your router or switch and the IP address will show next to IPv4 / eth0 at top of network screen. Enter this IP into an internet browser on a device connected to the same network to pull up Mainsail. You may need to restart KlipperScreen - System>Restart KlipperScreen.
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| -->Configuration | -->Configuration/network | Your IP should be visible. | Restart Moonraker |
Wi-Fi
Configure from the Network tab in Klipper Screen. After entering in your credentials, you will need to restart Moonraker. If your network is not visible or you have any other issues, contact us for assistance.
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| -->Configuration | -->Configuration/network | Choose your network and enter in your password. | Restart Moonraker |
Firmware / UI Updates
Any time we push updates, the process below can be followed. If you
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| Navigate to the Machine tab and look for Update Manager | Click refresh then update Elements | Check box next to Macros then click Restore |
As of 7/10/23, we have moved the mainsail.cfg out of the root /config directory so we can edit and add in some conditionals for the filament runout sensor.
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| Start typing "main" then press tab and MAINSAILCFG_PATH_UPDATE will populate. Press enter or the arrow to send the command. | After the command runs, Klipper will save and restart. This only needs to be done once and not everytime you update. |
Setting Z Offset
Z Offset is the value that positions the nozzle at the correct distance away from the bed surface. Then this sets the nozzle at the correct distance to avoid damaging the bed surface. The final offset will set during the first print to get the final squish on the filament to have proper bed adhesion.
From the Mainsail browser UI, start the z calibrate process
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- Choose Z OFFSET CALIBRATE from the macros menu
- Enter the bed and nozzle temperature for the material being printed (60C for PLA for example)
- Click on SEND to start the process
From the Klipper Box start the Z endstop offset calibration
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| back, back /Configuration | /Configuration/Z Calibrate | Press Start, choose Endstop |
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| Use the Raise/Lower icons to move the nozzle until you have drag on a piece of standard copy paper. | As you get closer, use smaller increments to dial in the distance. | Press accept |
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Resources
https://klipperscreen.readthedocs.io/en/latest/Zcalibrate/
Bed Mesh Calibration
A height map must be created for each bed temperature sent from the slicer. Bed temperature settings are located inside the filament profiles in OrcaSlicer
For example: ABS/ASA(110C), PETG(80C), PLA (60C), TPU (35C)
Our Build Bed Mesh macro makes this easy.
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| Press Send (green) and wait. The process is fully automated and will auto-save once complete, restarting the firmware. |
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Do not change the name of any heightmap profiles. Repeat the process for each respective material's bed temperature.
Filament Load / Unload
Insert filament into the tubing at rear of machine and push until it stops at the print head.
From the screen, locate and press the Load button.
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| -->Actions | -->Actions/ Extrude | -->/Actions/Extrude/Load or Unload |
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Input shaper -- Running A Shaper Tune
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| Clear the print bed of any prints | Plug the USB cable from the Klipper box into the PIS (Portable Input Shaper) | Make sure the cable is clear for the print head to home | Route the USB cable over the door and plug into the Klipper box |
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| Click PIS_ON from the macro | Click the Generate Shaper Graphs macro to run input shaping. Note: the drop-down allows running X and Y axis independently. To run X then Y click the GENERATE SHAPER GRAPHS and wait until completion. |
1) Leave the USB cable to PIS connected until Klipper restarts and reconnects. After a successful connection, 2) run PIS_OFF macro then 3) remove the USB cable from PIS.
If you removed the cable to soon and get an error on startup. You can plug the USB cable back in, wait for Klipper to reconnect then start from step 2.
Slicer Software
Download our custom OrcaSlicer packages for PC and MACOS. Contact us if you run a linux machine
Resources
https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer or within the application itself, you can click the home icon then User Manual in the left column.
Starting Your First Print
By now, you should have Z Offset/ Bed Mesh values stored and filament loaded. We suggest starting with test prints from the SD card for the nozzle you have installed and PLA (sample roll). Files are also located on our github page for easier access. You do not need to preheat the system before starting a print, but doing so doest not cause any issues. The process below outlines starting with the system at room temperature.
To run the test GCODES without error, build a bed mesh at 70 for PLA and
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| Press Print | Select your .gcode file | Confirm by pressing print again | The printer will home and start preheating |
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| Go into Fine-Tuning | Z Offset | Clicking on these items also brings up additional menus | Example, when pressing the extruder readout on the printing screen. |
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SSH
For experience users only! You should not need to connect to the machine outside the screen/ browser, but in case you are familiar..user - pi
password - tm3d
For BigTreeTech Pad 7 users
user - biqu
password - biqu
Useful SSH commands
cd ~/ && ./kiauh/kiauh.sh
System updates and other useful tools are available by using the KIAUH script. For more information, see https://github.com/th33xitus/kiauh