This guide will be worked on more! (we know some sections are imcomplete) If you run into any issues, please contact us.
- What's in the Box?
- What's in the (smaller) Box?
- Filtration Fan Install
- Spool Holder Install
- Filament Sensor Setup (Lerdge / OEM)
- Filament Sensor Setup (Orbiter V2)
- I/O Ports
- Odds and Ends
- Powering On
- Getting Connected (Wi-Fi/Ethernet)
- Setting Z Offset
- Bed Mesh Calibration
- Loading Filament -- Lerdge (Unloading too)
- Loading Filament -- Orbiter (Unloading too)
- Starting Your First Print
- SSH
Out of the Box
Use teamwork to safely and carefully remove the machine from the carton. After the machine is out, you can move it to its final running location.
Open the carton | Remove top foam | Remove top panel | Team lift machine out |
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What's in the Box?
Below is how your machine is secured before going in the carton. The fan cable is taped to the rear panel, circled in red. Then, cable ties securing the gantry corners and drag chain, indicated with green arrows.
Be sure to take care when cutting any cable (zip) ties or tape and do not cut any wiring or belts in the process.
Open the door then remove boxes (slide forward) | Remove foam while avoiding pulling on printhead | Cut cable ties, while avoiding belts and wires | Remove shipping tie down rings (twist CCW) |
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What's in the (smaller) Box?
Below is what the parts box will resemble inside. The box labeled "Removed Parts" has all the components replaced and, unless otherwise noted, does not contain anything you need.
Parts Used:
| Spares:
|
Filtration Fan Install
Route the fan cable through the hole as shown | Mount fan with included M3 hardware and plug in |
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Spool Holder Install
We have cut a section of the front door hinge mounting strip to mount the spool holder in the T-Slot extrusion. Slide the T-nuts in from the top and tighten the screws to secure the spool holder to the front of the printer. For Larger spools or for filament running in a dry box, we have included a tubing coupler.
Tubing coupler |
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Filament Sensor Setup (Lerdge / OEM)
Lerdge Filament Sensor
This sensor mounts outside the machine, close to the spool holder. The cable is taped to left side panel (1) for shipping and the sensor is shipped inside the parts box. We have designed and included a tubing adapter (4) attached and the sensor keys into the ball mount (2). The tubing goes halfway through the ball mount from the inside (3) and secures in the top of the extruder with integrated collets.
1. Remove tape | 2. Note - the ball mount is keyed for the Lerdge sensor | 3. Position the tubing, so it is about 1/4" in from outside | 4. Insert sensor into ball mount and plug in connection |
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Examples of print heads with external mounted filament sensor (Lerdge)
Orbiter V2 without integrated sensor | LGX |
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Filament Sensor Setup (Orbiter V2)
Orbiter V2 Filament Sensor
This sensor integrates directly to the Orbiter V2 Extruder and the tubing is one piece, coming from outside the printer, through the ball mount and into the sensor. The tubing has a friction fit in the translucent fitting on top of the filament sensor. Note, when positioning the tubing, move the print head to the back right corner, with the nozzle close to the bed. Press the tube into the filament sensor. Then push the Bowden tube through the ball mount until you have a clean arc between the two. (Shown in picture three)
The tubing may come loose in shipping, as it only has a slight friction fit in the extruder. This is normal. | With the printhead at back right or front right, the tubing should have a little slack. | The tubing is pushed inside for shipping. While squeezing the push collet, push the tubing outside | Filament can be loaded on the spool as shown and filament can be inserted into the tubing. Read through the rest of this guide before full insertion. |
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I/O Ports
Our fully serviced Troodons are equipped with Ethernet and USB ports. The printer can be connected directly to your router for optimal performance. For Wi-Fi only applications, it's important there is a high signal strength. The USB port can be used to run print jobs directly with the included reader/ SD card or a Wi-Fi antenna can be used with a configuration change.
- If your machine included a Wi-Fi antenna, the built-in antenna strength was not high enough.
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Odds and Ends
Included handles mount on top, lining up with panel cut outs. | Smooth PEI will have a plastic film. Be sure to remove before printing. |
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Powering On
Using the supplied power cable, plug into a wall outlet. Power strips are OK but if running other devices on the same outlet, you may experience issues. This machine has an AC powered bed and uses up to 10amps peak.
plug the power cable in from the parts box | flip the power switch on next to the power plug, wait for the printer to power on |
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Below is what the screen will display during boot
Getting Connected (Wi-Fi/Ethernet)
Ethernet
The Ethernet jack is visible from the right side of the machine. You connect directly to your router or switch and the IP address will show next to IPv4 / eth0 at top of network screen. Enter this IP into an internet browser on a device connected to the same network to pull up Mainsail.
-->Configuration | -->Configuration/network | Your IP should be visible. | Restart Moonraker |
Wi-Fi
~Can be configured from the Network section in Klipper Screen. After entering in your credentials, you will need to restart Moonraker.
-->Configuration | -->Configuration/network | Choose your network and enter in your password. | Restart Moonraker |
Setting Z Offset
Z Offset is the value that positions at the correct height so you have first layer adhesion. The final offset would be with the nozzle just touching the bed BUT to avoid damaging the bed, you can use a piece a paper or .003-.005" feeler gauge. Once a print starts, you will then need to adjust the Z Offset down the thickness of the shim used +/- a small amount so it's best to make final adjustments live.
-->Homing | -->Homing/Home All -- wait for finish | -->Quad Gantry Level (QGL) -- wait for finish |
back, back -->Configuration | -->Configuration/Z Calibrate | ~/Start -- machine will home again and position nozzle at 0 or pre-set offset position. |
Use the Raise/Lower icons to move the nozzle until you have drag on a piece of standard copy paper. | As you get closer, use smaller increments to dial in the distance. | Press accept |
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Resources
https://klipperscreen.readthedocs.io/en/latest/Zcalibrate/
Bed Mesh Calibration
A height map must be created for each bed temperature sent from the slicer. Bed temperature settings are located inside the filament profiles in OrcaSlicer
For example: ABS/ASA(110C), PETG(80C), PLA (60C), TPU (35C)
Our Build Bed Mesh macro makes this easy. Recent updates allow different probe point counts. Enter 3 for 3x3, 5 for 5x5, etc. Minimum is 3
| Press Send (green) and wait. The process is fully automated and will auto-save once complete, restarting the firmware. |
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Do not change the name of any heightmap profiles. Repeat the process for each respective material's bed temperature.
Loading Filament -- Lerdge (Unloading too)
Lerdge
The Lerdge Filament Sensor is a simple mechanical switch and has a green light indicating the switch is triggered. When open, the light will be off. The machine will begin heating the nozzle to 235 or running at the user set temperature.
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Insert filament into the tubing as shown above and push all the way down to the print head until it stops. From the screen, locate and press the Load button.
-->Actions | -->Actions/ Extrude | -->/Actions/Extrude/Load or Unload |
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Loading Filament -- Orbiter (Unloading too)
Orbiter
The Orbiter Filament Sensor is a smart switch with auto loading/ unloading functions but the user can also use the load/unload macros as displayed in the previous section.
Status LEDs.
- Red - no filament detected
- Green - filament present
- Yellow - unload button is pressed (only when filament is present)
with RED status light
Inserting filament will run a load macro, heating the nozzle to 235 or running at the user set temperature.
- To be done with the nozzle cold or set to the appropriate temperature > 180
- If a different temperature is desired, preheat to that temperature before loading.
Loading Notes:
- Do not attempt to feed a short of a piece because it may get stuck. Feeding from the spool directly to the sensor is preferred.
- Cut a sharp edge (45 degree angle is OK)on the tip of the new filament for easy insertion.
with GREEN status light
Pressing the unload button will run an unload macro, heating the nozzle to 235 or running at the user set temperature.
- To be done with the nozzle cold or set to the appropriate temperature > 180
- If printing, a pause macro will run first, then the unload macro at the printing temperature. After you insert new filament, it will autorun the load macro. After which, clear the purged amount and press resume on the screen.
insert picture or video of filament / tubing in Orbiter | |
Trim filament at 45 degree angle at tip and insert into tubing as shown. Feed until it comes out the end of the tubing. | Insert filament into top of extruder. The load macro will start (heat to 235 then load filament) |
Example of Orbiter V2 with Integrated filament sensor (LDO) with red status light
insert video of filament coming out the nozzle
Starting Your First Print
By now, you should have Z Offset/ Bed Mesh values stored and filament loaded. We suggest starting with test prints from the SD card for the nozzle you have installed and PLA (sample roll). Files are also located on our github page for easier access. You do not need to preheat the system before starting a print, but it does not cause any issues. The process below outlines starting with the system at room temperature.
Press Print | Select your .gcode file | Confirm by pressing print again | The printer will home and start preheating |
Go into Fine Tuning | Z Offset | Clicking on these items also brings up additional menus | Example when pressing the extruder readout on the printing screen. |
SSH
You should not need to connect to the machine outside of the screen/ browser but just in case,
user - pi
passwd - tm3d