Things needed:
Modified extruder / hotend mount (3d printed)
Tubing Cutter guide (3d printed)
M3 screws to mount extruder
More information will be added to this guide but for now, we have only done in house installations.
The pictures below show everything loose on a table, but you can do all this on your machine. The extruder / hotend mount will attach to your machine exactly like the original, using the same 3 x m3 cap screws from the back of the X carriage plate.
If your hotend is used, you will want to heat it up and remove any old filament before starting. Once filament is unloaded, turn off the machine, unplug the power cable and let the hotend cool.
You can remove the printhead from the machine to do this swap in a more comfortable workspace. See our ifixit guide for more information.
 Remove any clip/tubing/collet from the hotend1. Remove collet clip 2. Remove tubing 3. Remove collet |  Fully install hotend to new printed extruder / hotend mount and insert tubing again until it bottoms out. |
 With the tubing cutter guide (thicker side) sitting flat against the top face of the extruder / hotend mount, use a razor blade to cut the tubing to the proper length. It should be 6.25-6.5mm from the top face of the extruder / hotend mount. |  After tubing is trimmed, install Orbiter and the rest of the print head components. Double check that all components are plugged in correctly before powering your machine on. |
No firmware change is needed BUT steps/mm must be changed to 690 to start plus a few other tweaks. You can add the lines below to your starting script.
M92 E690 ;steps/mm - you may need to finetune it M201 E800 ;acceleration mm/s^2 M203 E120 ;max speed mm/s M205 E10 ;E jerk mm/s